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A revival of the cherry orchard
When a few trees died in the centre of Philip
Neaves’ cherry orchard, he might have been tempted to fill in the gaps
or even, like his neighbouring farmers, to grub up the whole lot and
replace them with a fruit crop that is easier to mange. But his Parish
Council approached him with another idea, which has seen his orchard
take on a different role. Daily Telegraph, April 2007
Neaves has been farming cherries in Kent all his
life. His father bought a cherry farm here in 1946, and he and his two
brothers were brought up helping out. Their heyday was the 60s and
70s.
“We used to send one or two lorries to London
every day,” says Neaves. “We had our own drivers and gangs of pickers
and our father flitted from pillar to post, sorting everything out.”
All three are still in fruit growing today, but
while his brothers have diversified into apples and pears and new, more
lucrative cherries, Philip has been loyal to his roots. His six-acre
orchard in Lynsted, with its traditional 25-30 feet high cherry trees,
is one of the last of its kind.
“People are glad to see the old cherry trees, and
children wouldn’t know what they looked like if we didn’t keep them
going,” he says. “When they are in blossom, the mass of white is really
beautiful.”
There has been a slight revival of cherry growing
in Kent recently, with the planting of new rootstocks, but the number of
traditional trees has fallen by 80% since the 1970s. The reasons are
simple.
Imported cherries from Turkey and USA are larger
and sweeter, and quicker to catch the eye. They are also grown on dwarf
plants, which are easier to protect against birds and bad weather.
But Neaves’s loyalty has born fruit after he
allowed the gap in his trees to be used by the village’s Community
Orchard Project, to celebrate the traditional Kentish cherry. Today,
the clearing provides a focal point, ‘a sort of amphitheatre for our
festivities,’ say the villagers.
“We have a Blossom Day, when people picnic there
to the accompaniment of a wind ensemble and maypole dancing,” says Bob
Baxter, the project’s instigator. “And on Cherry Day there is a guided
tour of the orchard, a pick your own stall and Morris Dancers.”
“We have an annual Hallowe’en Party, with
bonfires, storytelling and carved pumpkins.“
One year TV chef Michael Barry judged their Cherry
Recipe Competition. Entries included an unexpected Cherry Soup and
Cherry Omelette, and the best went into a cookbook.
“People did not realise how attractive orchards
could be,” says Baxter. “Last year, on a balmy summer day, we had an
evening of operatic arias. Everyone really enjoyed it, and now the
singers want to come back.”
Within a few years the orchard’s activities have
become an established part of the village calendar. And by involving
children, the orchard has attracted adults as well. In addition to the
six community events, it provides a place for the village school to
explore wildlife, while interviews with cherry pickers provide material
for local-history classes.
“The project is hugely important,” says Clare
Stewart, Secretary of Lynsted and Norton Primary School. “A lot of our
children come from Teynham, which is a sort of urban village. They
don’t have much access to the countryside. Bringing them to the orchard
exposes them to wildlife and the orchard’s history.”
Indeed, the project, which is funded by the Local
Heritage Initiative, has been so successful that it is being replicated
to three other traditional orchards in Kent. Here, the community will
have an even greater input; in return for helping restore and look after
the trees, they will be free access for a number of days.
“I didn’t know if the project was going to work,”
admits Neaves. “But my father would have been pleased. It involves the
whole village and is keeping alive the old cherry trees and traditions
of Kent. Hopefully it will carry on.”
This year’s Blossom Day in Lynsted takes
place on 29th April, and Cherry Day on 22nd July.
www.lynsted-orchard.org.uk and
www.kentdowns.org.uk
Tree Roots
The Romans had a keen interest in cherries and the
sour cherry, Prunus Cerasus, is named after a city they conquered
on the Black Sea. It was Henry VIII’s gardener, Richard Harrys, the
‘father of cherry growing,’ who developed the crop in England. He
introduced new varieties from Europe to his gardens in Teynham and
within a few decades of his death cherry orchards had spread across
Kent.
© Robert
Bullard. Not for reproduction without prior permission
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